Unlocking the Heart: A Guide to Building Trust with Your Shy Exotic Pet
Bringing an exotic pet into your home is an exciting adventure. Whether it’s a slithering snake, a colorful parrot, or a tiny hedgehog, these unique animals offer a special kind of companionship. But sometimes, these fascinating creatures come with a built in shyness. They might hide, flinch at your approach, or seem generally wary of your presence. It can feel a bit disheartening when your new friend seems more scared than sociable. But don’t worry! Building trust with a shy exotic pet is absolutely possible. It requires a special blend of patience, understanding, and the right approach. Think of it less like training and more like building a gentle friendship, one small, positive step at a time. This guide is here to walk you through that process, helping you understand your pet’s perspective and create a bond built on safety and respect.
Understanding Shyness in Exotic Pets: Why Patience is Your Superpower
So, you’ve noticed your exotic pet seems… well, shy. Maybe your leopard gecko spends all day in its hide, your new cockatiel retreats to the furthest perch when you approach, or your chinchilla freezes every time you enter the room. What does “shy” really mean for these animals, and why does it happen? Understanding the roots of this behavior is the very first step towards building trust. It’s not about your pet disliking you; often, it’s about their fundamental instincts and experiences.
Many exotic pets, especially reptiles, small mammals, and even smaller birds, are prey animals in the wild. Their survival for millennia has depended on being cautious, wary of sudden movements, loud noises, and large, unfamiliar beings – which, let’s face it, is exactly what we humans often appear to be from their perspective! This deep seated instinct tells them that hiding, freezing, or fleeing is the safest response when they feel uncertain or threatened. It’s not personal; it’s primal. A snake might coil tightly or hiss, a lizard might dash for cover, a bird might scream or try to fly away, and a hedgehog might curl into an impenetrable ball of spikes. These aren’t signs of aggression in this context, but rather desperate attempts to say, “Please leave me alone, I feel unsafe.” Recognizing this prey mentality is crucial. You need to prove, consistently, that you are not a predator.
Beyond natural instincts, past experiences play a huge role. If you’ve adopted a rescue animal, you might not know their history. They could have come from a neglectful situation, experienced rough handling, lived in a stressful environment, or simply weren’t socialized properly when they were young. These negative experiences create strong associations. If a previous owner always grabbed the pet suddenly or handled them improperly, the animal learns to associate human hands and presence with fear or discomfort. Undoing these learned associations takes time and a completely different, positive approach. Even pets acquired from seemingly good sources might have endured stressful transport or frequent changes in environment before reaching you, contributing to their initial wariness.
Sometimes, the shyness isn’t due to past trauma or deep instinct alone, but rather their current environment. An improperly set up enclosure can be a major source of stress. Imagine feeling constantly exposed, without a safe place to retreat. Or being too hot, too cold, or too humid. If the enclosure is too small, lacks adequate hiding spots, or is placed in a noisy, high traffic area of your home, your pet will likely feel perpetually anxious and on edge. This constant low level stress makes them much more likely to exhibit shy or defensive behaviors. They can’t relax, so they can’t begin to trust.
Lack of proper socialization during critical developmental periods can also lead to shyness. Young animals learn about their world and what is safe or dangerous. If an exotic pet wasn’t gently exposed to human presence, handling (if appropriate for the species), and normal household sights and sounds early on, they might grow up viewing everything unfamiliar as potentially threatening. Furthermore, some species, and even individuals within a species, are naturally more reserved or introverted than others. Just like people, some animals are naturally bolder, while others prefer a quieter, more solitary existence. Understanding the typical temperament of your chosen species is important for setting realistic expectations.
This is where patience becomes your absolute superpower. Trust, especially with an animal hardwired for caution or scarred by past experiences, cannot be rushed. Think about making friends with a very shy person. You wouldn’t run up to them, grab their arm, and insist they hang out with you, right? You’d likely start with quiet greetings, respect their space, find common ground, and let the connection build slowly and naturally. It’s exactly the same with a shy exotic pet. Every interaction needs to be on their terms, at their pace. We call this “Pet Time.”
Why is rushing so detrimental? When you force interaction on a scared animal – maybe by grabbing your gecko when it’s trying to hide, cornering your bird, or trying to uncurl your hedgehog – you confirm its fears. You become the scary thing it was worried about. This doesn’t build trust; it destroys it, reinforcing the negative association and potentially making the shyness even worse. Each forced interaction is a step backward, sometimes erasing days or weeks of patient progress. Impatience might look like reaching into the tank too quickly, making sudden movements, trying to handle the pet for too long, or ignoring clear signs of stress because *you* want to bond *now*. The consequences can range from the pet simply retreating further into its shell to defensive behaviors like biting or scratching, which are purely driven by fear.
Instead of forcing, focus on observing. Learning to read your specific pet’s subtle body language is key. What does stress look like for *your* individual animal and species?
Reptiles: Watch for hiding constantly, freezing in place when you approach, rapid breathing or puffing up the body, hissing or gaping the mouth, tail twitching or whipping (especially in lizards), or darkening/changing color dramatically (in species like chameleons). A relaxed reptile might bask openly, explore its enclosure calmly, or flick its tongue curiously.
Birds: Signs of fear include leaning away from you, slicking down feathers tightly against the body (or sometimes fluffing up excessively), rapid, shallow breathing, wide, staring eyes (sometimes with “pinning” – rapidly dilating and constricting pupils, though this can also mean excitement/aggression), retreating to the back or top of the cage, screaming, or attempting to bite if cornered. A calm bird might preen, chirp softly, grind its beak, or rest on one foot.
Small Mammals: Hedgehogs roll into a tight ball, hiss, and pop. Chinchillas might freeze, spray urine, or make sharp barking sounds. Sugar gliders might crab (make a repetitive warning noise) or lunge. Rabbits might thump their hind legs or try to flee frantically. General signs include hiding, avoiding open areas, teeth chattering (fear), or nipping/biting defensively. A relaxed small mammal might explore, groom itself openly, or accept treats gently.
It’s vital to understand that these fear responses should *never* be punished. Punishing an animal for being scared is like punishing a child for crying when they’re afraid – it’s cruel, counterproductive, and deeply damages trust. Instead, when you see signs of fear, the correct response is to calmly back off, give the pet space, and try again later with an even gentler, less intrusive approach. Your goal is to teach them that your presence predicts safety and maybe even good things (like treats!), not fear or force.
Understanding the roots of shyness and the absolute necessity of patience helps you set realistic goals. Building trust with a fearful exotic pet might take weeks, months, or even longer. There will be good days and bad days. Progress might be slow and incremental. But by embracing patience as your core strategy, observing carefully, respecting their boundaries, and celebrating small victories, you lay the groundwork for a truly meaningful and rewarding relationship. You’re not just taming an animal; you’re earning the trust of a sensitive individual, and that requires time, empathy, and unwavering gentleness. This patient approach is the foundation upon which all other trust building techniques rely.
Creating a Safe Haven: The Foundation of Trust
Imagine trying to relax and trust someone new while standing in the middle of a loud, chaotic, and exposed space where you constantly feel vulnerable. It would be nearly impossible, right? Your shy exotic pet feels the same way. Before you can even begin to build a positive association with *you*, your pet needs to feel fundamentally safe and secure in its own home – its enclosure. Creating a “safe haven” is not just a suggestion; it’s the absolute cornerstone upon which all trust is built. A stressed pet living in a suboptimal environment simply cannot learn to trust because its basic need for security isn’t being met.
Let’s break down what makes an enclosure a true sanctuary for a shy animal. First and foremost is the enclosure size and type. It must be appropriate for the species’ adult size and natural behaviors. Too small, and the animal feels cramped and stressed. Think vertical space for arboreal creatures like crested geckos or sugar gliders who need climbing opportunities, and ample floor space for terrestrial animals like bearded dragons or hedgehogs. Research your specific species’ requirements thoroughly. A cramped space offers no room to retreat or feel secure.
Within that appropriately sized enclosure, hides and security are non negotiable, especially for shy individuals. You need to provide multiple secure hiding spots. Not just one, but several options placed in different areas of the enclosure (e.g., one in the warmer area, one in the cooler area, some higher up, some on the ground level). This gives your pet choices and allows them to thermoregulate or feel secure wherever they choose to be. Hides can be commercial reptile caves, cork bark rounds or flats, half logs, dense artificial or safe live plants, PVC pipe sections, fabric pouches (for gliders or some small mammals), or even simple, opaque plastic containers with an entrance cut out. The key is that the hide should feel snug and enclosed, allowing the pet to feel completely concealed. A shy pet that always has a safe place to retreat to will feel less overall anxiety, making them more receptive to positive experiences when they *do* choose to emerge.
Equally critical are the environmental parameters: temperature, humidity, and lighting. Every exotic species has specific needs based on its native habitat. Maintaining the correct temperature gradient (a warm side and a cool side), appropriate humidity levels, and proper lighting (including UVB for many reptiles and diurnal species) is essential for their physical health. But it’s also crucial for their mental well being. An animal that is chronically too cold, too hot, too dry, or too damp is physically stressed. This physiological stress translates directly into behavioral stress, exacerbating shyness and fear responses. Using reliable thermometers, hygrometers, thermostats, and timers ensures these parameters are stable and correct, providing a consistent and comfortable environment where the animal doesn’t have to worry about basic survival needs. A stable environment fosters a sense of security.
Where you place the enclosure in your home also matters immensely – think location, location, location. For a shy pet, especially initially, choose a relatively low traffic, quiet area. Avoid placing the tank right next to a constantly banging door, a loud television, speakers vibrating the floor, or in the direct path of frequent human or other pet activity. Constant commotion and sudden loud noises are major stressors. You want the pet to acclimate gradually to the normal sounds and sights of your household, not be overwhelmed by them. As the pet gains confidence, you might be able to move the enclosure to a slightly more central location if desired, but start with peace and quiet. You can also enhance the feeling of security by using visual barriers. Covering the back and sides of a glass tank with background paper or cork tile can make the interior feel much more enclosed and less exposed. Strategic placement of taller plants or branches within the enclosure can also break up sightlines and provide visual security.
Beyond the physical setup, routine and predictability are powerful tools for reducing anxiety in shy pets. Animals thrive on routine. Try to establish consistent times for feeding, spot cleaning the enclosure, changing water, and even for your passive presence nearby. When your pet learns to predict when things will happen – especially potentially intrusive things like cleaning or benign things like feeding – it reduces their overall anxiety. They know what to expect and when, which makes the world feel safer and less chaotic. Avoid making sudden, drastic changes to their environment or schedule whenever possible. Consistency breeds security.
Take stock of other potential stressors in the household. Do you have dogs that bark incessantly near the enclosure? Cats that might try to paw at the tank? Young children who might tap on the glass or make sudden movements? These need to be managed carefully. Ensure other pets cannot directly harass the exotic pet (physically or visually). Supervise children closely and teach them to be calm and quiet around the enclosure. Even things we don’t think about, like strong perfumes, air fresheners, or shouting in the vicinity, can be olfactory or auditory stressors for sensitive animals. Minimizing these external pressures allows your pet to focus on feeling safe within their own space.
Finally, don’t underestimate the role of enrichment in building confidence. While hides provide passive security, enrichment provides opportunities for natural behaviors, which can reduce stress and boredom. A pet that can engage in species appropriate activities like climbing, burrowing, foraging, or exploring feels more in control of its environment. This can indirectly reduce general anxiety and shyness. Examples include providing deep substrate for burrowing species (like hognose snakes or certain rodents), complex climbing structures for arboreal animals, puzzle feeders or foraging toys for intelligent birds or mammals, and even just interesting textures and scents to investigate. A mentally stimulated pet is often a more confident pet.
In the initial stages, while your pet is settling into this carefully crafted safe haven, your role might simply be one of *passive presence*. Spend time quietly in the same room as the enclosure, perhaps reading a book or working on a laptop some distance away. Don’t stare directly at the pet or try to interact. Just let them get used to your calm, non threatening presence being a normal part of their environment. Let them observe *you* from the safety of their hides. This initial phase is all about establishing the enclosure as their secure base and associating the general environment outside the enclosure with peace and predictability. Only once your pet feels truly safe *in* its home can it start to consider trusting the giant (you!) *outside* its home.
The Art of Gentle Interaction: Building Bonds Step by Step
Once your shy exotic pet has settled into its safe haven and seems relatively comfortable in its environment (perhaps venturing out more often, eating well, and not constantly showing signs of high alert), you can begin the delicate process of building positive associations with *you*. This is where the real bonding happens, but it requires immense patience and a commitment to moving at your pet’s pace. Remember “Pet Time”? It’s paramount here. The goal is to layer positive, non threatening experiences one upon another, gradually teaching your pet that your presence, your voice, and eventually your hands predict safety and maybe even rewards. This process must be broken down into small, manageable steps, always watching your pet’s body language for signs of stress and backing off if needed.
Step 1: Voice Association. Your voice is one of the least intrusive ways to start building familiarity. Spend time talking softly and calmly whenever you are near the enclosure. You don’t need to talk *to* the pet directly if that seems to make it nervous initially. Just narrate what you’re doing, hum quietly, or read aloud. The key is a gentle, soothing tone. Avoid loud, sudden, or high pitched noises. Over time, your pet will start to associate the sound of your voice with your calm presence and routine events, like feeding time. This is simple classical conditioning – pairing your voice (neutral stimulus) with safety or food (positive stimulus).
Step 2: Presence Near the Enclosure. Gradually increase the amount of time you spend quietly near the habitat. Pull up a chair a comfortable distance away and engage in a calm activity – reading, scrolling on your phone (silently!), sketching. Don’t stare intently at the pet. Use your peripheral vision to gauge its reaction. Is it watching you curiously from its hide? Is it frozen? Is it going about its business? Your goal is simply to become a normal, non threatening part of the scenery. Let the pet observe you on its own terms, learning that your proximity doesn’t automatically mean something scary is going to happen.
Step 3: Hand Presence (Outside the Enclosure). Once your pet seems relatively unfazed by your quiet presence nearby, you can start associating your hands with that same calm energy. Rest your hand gently on the *outside* of the enclosure, perhaps near the glass or mesh, for short periods. Keep your hand still and relaxed. Don’t tap or wiggle your fingers. Let the pet see your hand and learn that it’s not going to suddenly intrude or grab. Do this for brief moments initially, gradually increasing the duration as the pet remains calm. Again, observe its reaction – curiosity is good, intense fear means you need to back off.
Step 4: Hand Presence (Inside the Enclosure – No Touching). This is a significant step, as you’re now entering *their* space. Choose times when you need to perform essential maintenance, like changing water or spot cleaning. Move slowly and deliberately. Place your hand inside the enclosure calmly, perform the necessary task efficiently, and remove your hand without trying to approach or touch the pet. Let them get used to your hand being inside their territory without any negative consequence. If they retreat to a hide, let them. Don’t chase or try to interact. Your hand inside should simply be a neutral, temporary event.
Step 5: Offering Treats (Positive Reinforcement). This is often a turning point. Food is a powerful motivator for many animals. Find a high value, species appropriate treat that your pet loves (mealworms for a gecko, a favorite seed for a bird, a tiny piece of fruit for a rodent – research safe options!). Initially, especially if the pet is flighty or nippy, offer the treat using long feeding tongs or tweezers. This allows you to deliver the reward from a distance. Hold the treat still and let the pet approach it. If they take it, great! If not, don’t force it; just remove it calmly and try again later. As they become bolder, you can try offering the treat from your open, flat palm. Keep your hand very still inside the enclosure, some distance away from the pet, and let them make the choice to approach and take the food. Never push the treat towards them or follow them with it if they retreat. The goal is to associate your hand directly with highly positive rewards, making them *want* to approach you. Offer treats when the pet is relatively calm or showing curiosity, not when they are actively displaying fear behaviors.
Step 6: Gentle Touch (If Appropriate for Species). This step requires extreme caution and is not suitable or necessary for all exotic pets. Many reptiles and amphibians, for instance, merely tolerate handling and don’t actively enjoy petting like a dog or cat might. Some species should ideally never be handled except when absolutely necessary for health checks. Know your species! If gentle touch is appropriate (e.g., for some birds, certain lizards, some small mammals), and your pet is consistently taking treats from your hand and showing calm body language, you *might* attempt brief, gentle contact. Move your finger *very* slowly towards their body, aiming for a less sensitive area first (like the side of the body, avoiding the head, feet, or tail initially). Attempt a single, light stroke. Watch their reaction like a hawk. Do they flinch, freeze, try to flee, or bite? Stop immediately. Do they seem indifferent or even lean in slightly (rare initially, but possible)? You might try another brief stroke. Keep these initial sessions incredibly short – literally one or two seconds of contact. Always end on a positive note, perhaps by offering a treat right after the brief touch.
Step 7: Handling (If Appropriate and Necessary). Again, prioritize your species’ needs and temperament. If handling is necessary for care or desirable for bonding (and the species tolerates it well), approach it gradually only after mastering the previous steps. Always aim to make handling predictable and positive. Avoid grabbing from above, which mimics a predator attack. Instead, try to gently scoop the animal from the side or underneath, supporting its body fully. Keep initial handling sessions extremely short – just a few seconds – and conduct them in a safe, secure area, like sitting on the floor, so there’s no risk of a long fall if the animal startles. Pay close attention to their stress signals. Put them back *before* they get frantic, ideally after a calm moment. You want the handling experience to end positively. For some species, you can even train “choice based handling” using target training or teaching them to voluntarily climb onto your hand or arm from their enclosure, giving them more control over the interaction.
Throughout this entire process, from voice association to handling, consistency is crucial. Short, frequent, positive sessions are far more effective than infrequent, long, or stressful ones. And above all, continuously read your pet’s body language. They are communicating their comfort level constantly through subtle cues. Respect those cues. If they say “no” (through hiding, fleeing, hissing, etc.), listen to them and back off. Pushing them past their threshold will only undermine the trust you’re working so hard to build. Always give them the option to retreat to their safe space. Patience, observation, and respect are the keys to unlocking a trusting relationship with your shy exotic companion.
Long Term Trust and Troubleshooting
Building that initial bridge of trust with your shy exotic pet is a huge accomplishment! It’s incredibly rewarding to see them start to relax in your presence, maybe take treats from your hand, or even tolerate gentle handling. But the journey doesn’t end there. Trust isn’t a one time achievement; it’s an ongoing relationship that requires consistent effort and understanding. You’ll also likely encounter bumps along the road – moments of regression or puzzling behavior. Knowing how to maintain the bond and troubleshoot common issues is key to a long lasting, positive relationship.
Maintaining the Bond
Once you’ve established trust, maintaining it involves continuing the practices that got you there. Don’t suddenly stop the positive routines just because your pet seems more confident.
Consistency is Still Key: Keep up with regular, positive interactions, even if they’re brief. Continue talking calmly to your pet, offer occasional treats during non feeding times just because, and maintain that predictable schedule for feeding and cleaning. Routine helps maintain their sense of security.
Maintain the Safe Haven: Don’t get complacent about their environment. Continue ensuring their enclosure is clean, secure, appropriately set up with hides and enrichment, and that environmental parameters (temp, humidity) are stable. A secure home base remains fundamental to their well being and confidence.
Keep Observing: Continue to pay close attention to your pet’s body language. Subtle shifts can indicate underlying issues (like illness or stress) before they become major problems. Noticing that your usually bold lizard is suddenly hiding more might be an early warning sign.
Regular, Calm Handling (If Appropriate): If handling is part of your routine and well tolerated by your pet, continue with short, positive handling sessions. This reinforces their comfort with you. Always end sessions on a positive note and respect their desire to return to their enclosure. Don’t suddenly increase handling duration or frequency dramatically.
Trust is like a bank account; consistent positive interactions are deposits, while negative or stressful experiences are withdrawals. Keep making those positive deposits!
Troubleshooting Common Setbacks
It’s normal to encounter setbacks when working with any animal, especially sensitive exotic pets. Don’t get discouraged! Understanding why setbacks happen and how to respond calmly is crucial.
Regression: Sometimes, a pet that was making great progress suddenly seems fearful again. Why? Common causes include:
Illness or Discomfort: Underlying health issues can cause pain or lethargy, leading to behavioral changes like increased hiding or irritability. If regression is sudden or accompanied by other symptoms (loss of appetite, changes in droppings), a vet visit is warranted.
Environmental Change: Did you move the enclosure? Change the substrate? Introduce a new piece of decor they find scary? Add another pet to the household nearby? Even seemingly small changes can unsettle a sensitive pet.
Negative Experience: Did something frighten them? A loud noise, a clumsy handling attempt, being startled during sleep?
Response: Don’t panic or get frustrated. Assess the situation – rule out illness first. Check the environment for recent changes. Most importantly, simply go back a few steps in your trust building process. Reduce handling, increase passive presence, focus on treat feeding again. Rebuild confidence patiently, just like you did initially.
Fear Periods: Some animals, particularly birds, can go through developmental stages or hormonal periods where they become naturally more fearful or defensive. This isn’t necessarily something you did wrong. Response: Recognize this might be a phase. Be extra patient, reduce demands, focus on maintaining routine and basic positive associations (like treats), and avoid forcing interactions that might lead to bites or increased fear. Wait it out calmly while maintaining the baseline of trust.
Plateaus: What if progress just seems to stop? Your pet takes treats but won’t tolerate touch, or tolerates touch but never seems truly relaxed during handling. Response: First, reassess. Are you pushing too fast? Is the environment truly optimal? Are the treats high value enough? Sometimes, slightly changing your approach can help (e.g., trying target training instead of just hand feeding). However, it’s also crucial to accept your individual pet’s limits. Some animals, due to inherent temperament or past trauma, may never become cuddly or enjoy extensive handling. Appreciate the level of trust you *have* achieved and respect their boundaries. A pet that feels safe and eats from your hand, even if it doesn’t like being held, is still a success story.
Accidental Scares: You dropped something loud near the cage, or tripped while holding them (hopefully safely!). Oops. Response: The key is *your* reaction. Stay calm. Don’t rush to comfort them aggressively, as this can be overwhelming. Give them space to recover. Speak in a soft, reassuring tone. End the interaction calmly. In the next few sessions, you might need to take a small step back in your approach until their confidence returns.
Species Specific Challenges: Be aware of behaviors unique to your pet. A snake might be more defensive when it’s “in blue” (about to shed). A bird might become hormonal and territorial during breeding season. A nocturnal animal might be consistently grumpy if disturbed during its sleeping hours. Response: Learn about these species specific behaviors and adjust your interactions accordingly. Respect their natural cycles and needs.
Knowing When to Seek Help
While patience and gentle methods work for most cases of shyness, there are times when professional help is needed.
Consult an Exotic Veterinarian: Always rule out medical causes for sudden or severe behavioral changes, persistent lack of appetite, lethargy, or signs of pain. Many vets specialize in exotic animals and can identify health problems that might be contributing to fear or aggression.
Consult a Qualified Behaviorist: If you’re dealing with extreme fear that significantly impacts the animal’s welfare (e.g., refusing to eat when you’re present, constant panic behaviors) or persistent aggression that makes basic care difficult or dangerous, consider consulting a professional animal behaviorist who has specific experience with exotic pets. They can help assess the situation, develop a tailored behavior modification plan, and provide expert guidance. Ensure they use positive reinforcement based methods.
Building and maintaining trust with a shy exotic pet is a testament to your dedication and empathy. It requires you to see the world from their perspective, respect their instincts, and celebrate every small victory. The bond formed through this patient process is often incredibly deep and uniquely rewarding. You didn’t just acquire a pet; you earned a friend who learned to see you not as a threat, but as a source of safety and kindness.
Summary and Your Next Step
Building a strong, trusting relationship with a shy exotic pet is a journey paved with patience and understanding. We’ve explored how crucial it is to first recognize the roots of their shyness, often stemming from natural prey instincts, past negative experiences, or an environment that doesn’t feel secure. Creating a true safe haven, with appropriate housing, multiple hides, stable conditions, and a predictable routine, forms the essential foundation.
From there, gentle interaction is key. We broke down the process into manageable steps: associating your voice with calmness, becoming a non threatening presence, introducing your hand neutrally inside their space, using positive reinforcement with favorite treats, and only then considering gentle touch or handling if appropriate for the species, always moving at the pet’s pace. Remember, consistency, careful observation of body language, and respecting their boundaries (“Pet Time”) are paramount throughout.
Trust is an ongoing commitment, requiring continued positive interactions and vigilance against potential setbacks like regression or environmental stress. Knowing how to troubleshoot common issues and when to seek help from vets or behaviorists ensures you can support your pet through thick and thin.
The connection you forge with an exotic animal that learns to trust you despite its initial fear is truly special. It’s a bond built on mutual respect, patience, and the quiet language of understanding. You’re not just caring for an animal; you’re unlocking the heart of a unique individual.
Ready to deepen the bond with your unique companion? Start today by taking five minutes to simply sit quietly near their enclosure, observing their subtle cues without any expectation. Notice one small detail about their behavior. Share your quiet observation or a trust building goal you have in the comments below – we’d love to hear about your journey!
